My first VLT observing run

by Stuart Ryder

In July 2018 I traveled to Cerro Paranal in Chile for half a night in Visitor Mode (VM) with X-Shooter on UT2 of the Very Large Telescope. Usually ESO does not permit VM runs of less than 1 night due to the overheads involved, and we were originally allocated the time in Designated Visitor Mode (dVM). However we were able to make the case for why an observer needed to be present on-site for these observations, so if you feel you have a case then you should contact the Observing Programmes Office. Here are a few more things I learned that you may find helpful when going to Chile to observe:

• You have the option of having ESO book all your travel for you, or you can purchase your own international flights and have ESO reimburse you (from Sydney ESO will reimburse up to 1580 Euros). If going straight to/from Paranal or La Silla through Santiago it would be best to have ESO book the international and domestic flights all on the one booking in case of a delay.
• ESO's policy is to pay the costs for only one observer per run at Paranal. Students accompanying their supervisor to La Silla may also have their costs met. I am aware of at least one student accompanying their supervisor to Paranal where ESO agreed to cover the cost of the student's accommodation in the Guesthouse and on Paranal, so it may be worth asking.
• It used to be that a driver carrying an ESO sign would meet you on arrival and take you to the ESO Guesthouse without you having to pay anything. However taxi touts have begun praying on jet-lagged astronomers by holding up fake ESO signs, taking them to the Guesthouse, then demanding payment far above the usual fare. You should make your way to the TransVIP counter next to Door 4 on the arrivals level (regardless of whether you arrive on an international or domestic flight), collect the receipt for your pre-paid ESO booking, proceed out Door 4 to the first road, and look for the TransVIP sedans to the right (usually dark-blue Hyundais with a "TransVIP" stencil on the quarter light) or a TransVIP rep wearing a blue and yellow jacket.
• The ESO Guesthouse in Las Condes is a peaceful haven in the hustle and bustle of Santiago. Some may prefer a hotel downtown closer to the action and restaurants, but then you'll miss out on the Pisco Sour aperitifs, and the chance to strike up conversation (and perhaps launch a new collaboration?) over dinner with colleagues passing through Santiago on their way to/from the observatories or ESO headquarters in Vitacura.
• ESO encourages all visitors to give a talk at ESO headquarters, which is a 10 minute taxi ride or 50 minute walk from the Guesthouse. Keep in mind though that due to the large number of visitors and talks each week, you will probably end up giving a TMT (Thirty Minute Talk). ESO will pay for an additional night in the Guesthouse for all speakers.
• Travel to Paranal usually involves an early (~6am) pickup from the Guesthouse, a 2 hour flight to Antofagasta, then a 2.5-3 hour bus trip to the observatory arriving ~1:30pm. A continental breakfast is available before you go, and lunch is served until 2:30pm, but you may wish to pack or purchase snacks for the journey. The return trip is similarly long, with a ~4:20pm departure from Paranal, arrival back in to Santiago at 10pm, and (depending on the wait for TransVIP - avoid Thursdays when all the mine workers are ending their shifts) arrival at the Guesthouse after 11pm. There will however be a sandwich and glass of wine ready for you!
• A walk on the "Star Track" from the Residencia to the telescopes, especially around sunset, can be rewarding. But beware, it's further and steeper than it looks! Before venturing out at any time always take water and a torch with you, and let someone know where you're going.
• The ESO-branded crockery is another quaint tradition, but please don't try to take some home as a souvenir! ESO carries out random screening of bags on departure, and we don't want to put Australia's long-term goal of full ESO membership at risk. Due to tax issues ESO no longer sells souvenirs at the observatories, but you can buy merchandise on-line at the ESO Shop. If you ask at the reception nicely they may give you a free ESO travel mug.
• Surprisingly for such a well-appointed building, the rooms in the Residencia are not particularly light-tight, so you may want to hang on to those eye-shades from the flight over.
• Staff seem to trust the weather forecasts for Paranal available from Meteoblue. Supposedly the chances of good weather and seeing correlate with the amount of chocolate brought by the observer to share with others in the control room...
• By the end of the night you will be sick to death (or have learned to tune out) the "There is no cause for alarm" voice emanating from each telescope console whenever a UT starts slewing to a new position, followed by "but there probably will be" when it arrives. In case you were wondering these come from the animated children's TV series Pinky and the Brain.
• To provide some relief from the barren surrounds, there is a small garden at the entrance to the Residencia with a few trees, including eucalypts. Watch out for the boulders though; they're fakes left behind after the filming of Quantum of Solace there in 2008.

If you'd like to share your own experiences, tips, and photos with others, please feel free to e-mail me and we'll post these as a guest blog on your behalf.